Double cleansing

What is double cleansing?

The thing is, you want your SPF to stick to your skin and do its job, but then you have to remove it in the evening if you want your other skincare products to work. Basically, when you use an oilier product to melt your make up and SPF and then follow with a water-based cleanser to remove what’s left, you’re doing a double cleanse. In some situations or with some types of skin people will use the same product for the first and the second cleanse, but generally we like to use an oil or balm based cleanser as a first step, then a gel or a foam as the second step. This will usually remove all impurities from the skin getting it ready for your nigh routine, for your actives, hydration and moisturizing. 

How to double cleanse? 

My favorite way to start my evening routine is just to put an oily, buttery or balmy cleanser straight onto my face – on dry skin, over make up and SPF. I like to spread it gently, focusing on lashes when using mascara or generally very gently massaging all over to melt the remaining products from my face. Then I rinse and use a gel or a foam and rinse that off as well. Many of my clients use face cloths / flannels instead of rinsing – it has to be wet, of course – but my skin hates it and turns bright red at the sight of a cloth. After rinsing or flannel removing the second step cleanser, tap dry your skin and it’s ready for your other products.

Which products to choose?

Well, I’m in the EU so I have some specific products I love – for first cleanse my favorite is Bandi Pure Care Vitamin Oil, but if you can’t get that one, check out Versed Day Dissolve Cleansing Balm – it’s dreamy! It melts easily and does it’s job incredibly – that’s what you’re looking for. Some people enjoy The Inkey List Oat Cleanser, many people rave about The Ordinary Squalene Cleanser – both decent and affordable. If you’d like to pamper your skin and can afford it, Then I Met You Living Cleansing Balm is your go-to. If your skin is on the irritated, prone to redness side, REN Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk is gorgeous and I used it for quite some time after my IPL treatments for broken capillaries. 

With first cleanse I have to say I’m not a fan of micellar water type of products because I’ve seen too many people just leave them on the skin like it’s a toner. Micellar water is not a toner and has to be rinsed off! If you leave cleansing agents on your skin you’re risking a compromised skin barrier, redness and irritation.

As for my favorite second cleanse I’d always go for Bandi Pure Care Cica Foam, it’s absolutely lush! If you can’t get your hands on that, Jordan Samuel Skin The Aftershow Treatment Cleanser is amazing. My skin also loved the Allies of Skin Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser but it has the funkiest smell I’ve ever come across in skincare. 

Are there times you don’t need a double cleanse? 

Sure. I think there’s absolutely no need for a double cleanse in the morning. If you’ve not used any make up or SPF all day long you’re also good with just using your second step cleanser. And one more case where I’d say no need for a double cleanse: if your skin can’t handle it. In case you’ve just been through a procedure, is irritated or just a step away from freaking out, use a gentle milk or gel product to remove make up and SPF and use the gentlest possible second step cleanser. 

And what do we do in the morning? 

If you have acne or incredibly oily skin you can use a gentle one step cleanser in the morning, but if your skin is normal or to the dry side, just use water – room temperature water, of course. If you still feel oily after water, choose a gentle cleanser for your morning routine. 

A good routine does start with clean skin but you should never go overboard – it’s always better to stick to gentler products than to kill your skin by cleansing it.

Best skin cleansing tips & tricks:

► Use room temperature / lukewarm water. Hotter or colder water will irritate the skin if it shows it or not. Some people want to “wake up their skin” with cold water in the morning and others still use hot water in the shower – both is irritating for the skin and if possible, should be avoided. 

► Don’t go overboard. Yes, I’m totally repeating myself, but using the harshest cleansers on the market isn’t going to make those acne go away, it’s going to make them worse. I’ve seen this so many times it hurts. If you’re already using actives such as retinoids and exfoliants, there’s no need to use a salicylic/glycolic acid cleanser as well. 

► If you have any remaining scrubs, use them on your feet but do not use them on your face. The hard particles will cause microtears on your skin and your skin will look and feel even worse in the long run. This is especially a problem with acne-prone and younger people who still believe giving your skin a good rub will do you a favor. It won’t. You’re killing your skin. Stop it.

► Avoid soap bars and antibacterial cleansers, especially the ones meant for your hands. They will even further irritate your skin and that’s just not what you’re looking for in a cleanser.

► Be as gentle as possible and use the gentles possible products.

► Make-up wipes are generally out. There are so many gentler and more effective products you could use. The only time you could potentially use wipes is when travelling without the option of a double cleanse.

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